A city within a temple
Preah Khan was built in 1191 on the site of Jayavarman VII’s victory over the Cham. Its name means “Sacred Sword”. More than a temple, it was a city and a centre of learning: inscriptions mention over a thousand teachers and nearly a hundred thousand people supporting it.
Unlike Ta Prohm, it was partly restored, but trees still grow from its walls and it keeps a romantic, half-ruined feel.
What to look for
- The long east–west axis: stand in the centre and look down a corridor of doorways, each slightly smaller than the last.
- The two-storey building: its round columns are unlike anything else at Angkor, and nobody is quite sure what it was used for.
- Hall of Dancers: lintels carved with rows of dancing apsaras.
- Garudas: giant bird-men holding serpents, spaced along the outer wall.
San’s tip
“Preah Khan is the temple guests remember as their ‘surprise favourite’. Take your time here. It is shady, and you will often have whole sections to yourself.”


